China Calling
Good day all sorry for the delay in updating you all but theres been alot going on as you'll soon see.
Trek so Far: Beijing - Xi'an - Chengdu - Liuzhou - Guilin - Yangshou
28 Nov 04 (Sunday, Day 1)
Apart from a slight hiccup on boarding my Heathrow to Beijing flight my journey to Beijing was relatively painless. My boarding pass made reference to Beijing Capital Airport and despite having already checked in etc the Air Hostess doubted its validity. I was tempted to suggest that Beijing being the capital of China the reference to Capital Airport made sense. However I reckoned she might find that a tad patronising and perhaps it would be best to keep her on side. So I merely informed her "thats the boarding pass they gave me and I'm definitely on route to Beijing so unless this plane is going somewhere else I think i'm in the right place. " Wait one moment sir while I check with the Captain". Captain enlightened us that everything was in order and matter amicably resolved to the satisfaction of all, thus avoiding major international incident???
29 Nov 04 (Monday, Day 2)
Found hostel with some difficulty. I reckon my charades skills will be well honed at the end of this chinese jaunt. Met English guy (Marcus) and strolled around beijing with him. Met three chinese (eager to improve their English, this is a popular ice-breaker for sellers of just about anything). After the obligatory 5 minutes of harmless chit-chat they wondered if we wanted to get something to eat. We decided to go to a chinese teahouse with them. Only cost about 20 Yuan (2 Euro's) but a fellow could have 10 bottles (630ml) of the local beer for that. Still it wasn't too bad as I'd asked the price in advance. I've since heard of guys having to fork out 300 Yuan for the same lark. Thats 10/15 nights accommodation. Doesn't say much for the old adage "if you have to ask the price you can't afford it".
30 Nov 04 (Tuesday, Day 3)
Visited the Forbidden City, Tianamen Square and Jingshan Park.
(Front of the Forbidden City)
(Rear of the Forbidden City)
On my own on this occassion later I met two more avid English learners, Wong and his rather taciturn friend Chi-Chi, if in fact that was their real names....the plot thickens. I was eager to confirm my suspicions from the previous day so I acted all eager and enthusiastic initially only delighted to help them improve their knowledge of the English language, just to see what sort of a response I'd get. Sure enough they eventually wanted to know if i'd like some chinese tea, some peking duck, to view some art, or take a rickshaw ride. Once they'd gone through their entire inventory and realised I'd no intention of buying anything from which they could earn a commission they left. Chi-chi spoke for the first time apparently she had to go meet a friend.
(Spotted this old Jag on the way to Tianemen Sq)
(Tianemen square late at night & in heavy smog)
Later back at the hostel got some drinking buddies for the night.
01 Dec 04 (Wednesday, Day 4)
Went to Mao's Mausuleum with English Guy and Chinese-American (Hoi). It was a strange, somewhat surreal experience and the best indication yet of the ability of this communist country to perform as efficient capitalists. We were practically the only foreigners in the queue (but it is low season at the moment). As we neared the steps of the Mausuleum the orderly queue erupted into momentary chaos as throngs of native chinese made a mad dash to the flower vendor's booth, where they purchased flowers, funnily enough, with which to pay homage to chairman Mao. We noticed that the flowers were artificial and cynically deduced that once deposited at the statue of Mao they would be collected later that evening and resold the following day. Money is also left at the alter and I'm sure thats not simply allowed to rot either. Anyway once all the chinese in our tour had their flowers we ascended the steps in an orderly queue. At the top of the steps they were also selling a pamphlet on Chairman Mao. I'd say we were the only three not to buy one. Next on in past a humongous statue of the seated chairman Mao and on into the room where his preserved body is laid out encased in glass and out the other side into the chairman Mao Memorabilia shop. We were all quite glad to have done it although it was nothing by comparison to the "Roger Moore" narrated audio tour of the forbidden city. The American guy said he was glad he'd done it as apparently he'd never seen a dead body before. High praise indeed for Chairman Mao.
Next off to the wax and history museum. I'll spare you the details. Also went to the silk market a street vendors paradise. You can get some good fake gear here (Gortex, north face etc) but you'd better be prepared to bargain or you'll be ripped off. Their fairly enthusiastic to say the least. Later we sampled some of the legendary Peking Duck washed down with some local brew......lovely jubbly.....sorted.
02/12/04 (Thursday, Day 5)
The highlight of my time in Beijing was undoubtedly the 10Km trek along the wall from Jinshanling to Simatai. I was the only person in the hostel doing the trek and the chinese bird on reception thought this was hilarious. "You only person doing this" she said laughing uncontrollably. So I'm like is there any guarantee I won't be the only person doing it if I do it the following day instead. "No". Ok sign me up then. Sure enough there was a good crew from other hostels doing the trek and I ending up in a group with 2 aussies and and English guy, all good craic. Great scenery a truly awe inspiring sight, or as Richard Nixon is famed for saying "It truly is a great wall". Bush couldn't have said it better himself. Wall very steep in certain areas. Parapets on either side missing at various points. At the end of the trek we had to cross a foot bridge (Indiana Jonesesque) over a river. I was so knackered tired when I got back to the hostel that I walked straight through the vertical plastic strips they have at the doorway (abbatoir style), to keep out insects etc and slap bang into the glass door behind it. Oh painful. True to form the receptionist thought it was hilarious. No problem sleeping that night.
(Me on the Great Wall)
03/12/04 (Friday, Day 6)
Off to Xi'an via train (hard sleeper 256 Yuan, 14Hrs). Sleeper was surprisingly comfortable although the top third bunk is a bit hard to mount and consequently cheaper. Well, you know me last of the big spenders.
(Hoi & Me before I head for the train to Xi'an)
04/12/04 (Saturday, Day 7)
Saw some of the sights of Xi'an did both the bell and drum towers and walked the length of the old walled city and back.
Met both a Leitrim and a Longford lad in the hostel, both great craic, and so JB's barmy army was reborn.
(The Bell Tower, Xi,an)
05/12/04 (Sunday, Day 8)
Head to the Terracotta Warriors with the two Irish guys, and Marcus (English guy). A spectacular enough sight but after 20 minutes you've seen it all.
(Dermot, Patrick, Marcus and me at the Teracotta Warriors)
06/12/04 (Monday, Day 9)
Visited the muslim quarter (so colourful character to be seen here and the food hygiene isn't up to much) and walked along the top of the old city wall. That night we hooked up with a native chinese guy (Li-tan), always good to have one on board and Mark another English lad. Decided to climb mount Huashan the following day.
07/12/04 (Tuesday, Day 10)
Climbed Mt Huashan (2160 Meters above sea level). Steps all the way up but in places the stairs are inclined at angles not far off 90 degrees.
(Two of the lads ascending one of the steeper stairs on Mt Huashan)
It was tough going up but it was worth the effort as you get to escape the smog of the big cities and inhale some fresh air. Absolute agony going down as old knee-injury flaired up. Glad to have done it though and I reckon it was definitely the highlight up to this point. Later on to traditional chinese dumpling joint with Li-tan on board to order for us.
The English lad that was with us at this stage was from Hereford. (One of the Irish lads had discreetly informed me earlier that this was apparently home to the SAS so be careful what you say because you never know). Of course I couldn't resist. He was a grand lad and I reckoned he had a sense of humour so at one stage during the meal he commented on my use of a knife and fork as opposed to the traditional chinese chop-sticks. To which I responded "Ah ye English more chinese than the chinese themselves". I got a bit of a laugh from the two Irish boys at this. So I let the dust settle...for about 5 seconds...timing is everything and then "Sure before you know it you'll be trying to colonise the place". The lads couldn't contain themselves. The English guy feigned ignorance and the chinese lad as usual was looking around all confused wondering what the three Irish guys were laughing at. All in good fun.
(Litan, Mark, Myself and Dermot at the Summit of Mount Huashan)
08/12/04 (Wednesday, Day 11)
Calves & Quads absolutely killing us. All walking around like John Wayne. Off to western barbaque buffet joint for protein hit.
09/12/04 (Thursday, Day 12)
Catch train to Chengdu (16.59). Top bunk again of course.
10/12/04 (Friday, Day 13)
Arrive Chengdu, 09.00 . Word of warning avoid eating loads of peanuts and drinking copious amounts of orange juice as this can give you Vitamin C poisoning. I'll spare you the lurid details but believe you me, you don't want to get it. Anyway suffice is to say that the first port of call in case of any travel difficulties is the biggest most luxuriant hotel you can possibly find, as they can speak English, are most obliging and almost invariably will have western Jax. After all in times of crisis one needs ones comfort. So off to the Yinhe Dynasty Hotel. I highly recommend it although it's not a patch on the much more oppulent Sofitel Wanda Chengdu Hotel. Anyway while we were there we got talking to this american business man:
"So are you guys stayin here?"
"God no we're just using the facilities"
"Aw you Irish....So where are you stayin?"
"Hostels"
"How much they set ye back"
"20 Yuan a night"
"20 Yuan, my God I wouldn't put my shoes down in a place like that"
"Why not?" (Stupid question I know)
"They'd start to walk on their own"
Anyhow he was paying 600 Yuan (60 euro roughly) a night (Company footing the bill of course) for the Yinhe Dynasty which isn't bad if your only travelling for a week or so and the company is footing the bill. I reckon a room in a similar hotel back home would easily cost over 150 Euro a night. We explained that this was a full months accommodation budget for us. "Yeah, I know" came the response, as he took another drag on his big fat cigar. "You know guys you'll have no problems in a place like this, they love westerners, nice seein ye enjoy your stay". And so we left him to enjoy his cigar.
11/12/04 (Saturday, Day 14)
Up bright and early to visit Panda research centre. Basically they get up early in the morning waddle around the place (not too much waddling as they don't want to strain themselves) eat some bamboo shoots and conk out for the rest of the day (at about 10.30am) in whatever position they find themselves in once their tummies are full. What a life. Well worth the visit though. Got to see some red pandas also, some cranes (the flying type although no shortage of the other variety here in china at the moment) and some black swans.
(Panda having a leisurely meal in Chengdu Panda Research Centre)
12/12/04 (Sunday, Day 15)
At this stage we've recovered from the after pains of Mount Hua Shan so time to climb yet another mountain we surmise. So off to Mount Emei Shan (3077 Meter ABSL). Gluttons for punishment. Me
13/12/04 (Monday, Day 16)
Up early again and first bus to the base of Wannian Temple. Admission 120 Yuan (60 Yuan with student Card). Dermot and I used our cards. Vendor doesn't look closely at our faces but carefully inspects validity date. Grand job. Give glasses and student card to Pat who after a reasonable interval approached ticket office with glasses and baseball cap donned. No problem. Onwards and upwards. Climbed almost to the top but fog very heavy and visibility low, so stopped for the night in this dingy little cafe/bar place. By this stage we'd hooked up with yet another English guy. The owner of the cafe and he's female companion had a right laugh at the four of us. The place was freezing but thank God for longjohns and electric blankets.
(Me with my head above the clouds on Mount Emei Shan)
Mount Emei Shan is inhabited by Kleptomaniac Monkeys and as is my luck I happened to have an encounter with one of these. There I was walking along minding my own business, Dermot behind me, monkeys to my left, monkeys to my right and this monkey walks right up beside me grabs my coat to impede my forward movement and with his other hand reaches right up and swipes a bottle of orange from my pocket. He had plenty of back-up so I offered no resistance. The two lads who were some distance behind later happened accross the same monkey who at this staged had opened the bottle and was licking the contents off the ground. The cheeky monkey.
14/12/04 (Tuesday, Day 17）
Up early and on up to the Golden Summit. Fog had lifted and clouds were breaking so some fantastic views. Loads of native chinese labourers hauling heavy loads up the mountain on their backs. Bloody tough work.
(Some of the heavy haulage brigade taking a well earned rest on the ascent of mount Emei Shan)
At the top saw some of the rich chinese. They were wearing only the most expensive gear. No exaggeration, but a fellow could climb mount everest in the gear they were wearing and they were so clean and well turned out it was obvious that they'd gotten the cable car the whole way up. They also had these huge top of the range digital cameras with them. On our descent we saw a chinese man in a suit being carried up by two chinese carry car operators. Fair enough this did look a bit pretentious and he did appear to be lording it over them and showing off to his friends but on the other hand these boys are doing this to make money so if no one avails of the service their out of business. Also undoubtedly bloody tough work. More to the point though what in the name of god is this moron doing wearing a suit way up hear in the middle of no-where. It defys logic.
(Me at the Summit of Mount Emei Shan)
On our descent we get lunch in a nearby restaurant. It was not very appetizing.The chicken I got was a combination of bones, fat and a less than generous helping of actual meat. It was accompanied by generous helpings of some vegetable I didn't recognise but suspect was bamboo. Well it may as well have been saw dust for all the flavour it added. Felt a bit pissed off with that meal. Headed back to Chengdu.
(On the descent from Mount Emei Shan)
15/12/04 (Wednseday, Day 18)
Hit a western food joint to make up for yesterday's culinary fiasco. Later hit a few night spots.
16/12/04 (Thursday, Day19)
Train from Chengdu to Liuzhou (31 hrs). Got goodsleep. Had a bad dose of the flu at this stage. Met a chinese businessman on the train (Kendall, many chinese people I've met who deal with a lot of foreigners tend to anglicise their name). He was anxious to practice his english, for an upcoming trip to Forida USA (Citrus Fruit Growers Convention). He already had good english but I gave him a few pointers. A western friend of his had just married a beautiful chinese girl and he wasn't quite sure how to word his letter of congratulations. I gave him some conservative recommendations along the lines of live long and prosper. He had some oranges with him so we sampled a few. I assured him that if the rest of his produce was as good as these he should have no problem exporting. He was chuffed with that and gave me some oranges for the road along with his business card. He also asked me for mine but I explained I was fresh out them at that moment. The men beside us were obviously having a good laugh at my expense (a common occurrence here for the hapless foreigner). Kendall informed me that they said I was eating alot of fruit, drinking loads of water but was afraid to try the train food. I explained to kendall that I'd been to the dining car earlier but had to leave as I was unable to order anything. Everthing on the menu was in chinese mandarin only and the waiter (who you can normally have a game of charades with and get some rice and something else) if there was one, wasn't exactly advertising his presence. Later when the food lady came around Kendall got some grub for himdelf and I said feck it sure I'll have some too. Of course as soon as I started using the old chopsticks an audience began to congregate and I was again the source of much mirth and amusement. The Chinese really are a curious lot.
Now the language barrier etc was not the only reason for my reluctance to eat on the train there is one other major factor to be considered namely the lack of western toilets. I had managed to master the use of the squat on terra firma but on a moving train and not just any train but a train with a tendency to jolt violently every so often without any warning the task struck me as one which required a high degree of athleticism and I wasn't certain I had what it took. I'd also heard of one Irish lad who'd mis-timed it badly on one occassion and I had no desire to be smelly paddy number two...pardon the pun. However it was a 31 hour train journey and when nature calls you'd better answer. So off to the jax firmly clutching my much prized toilet roll. I felt like one of the 600 should have felt before they marched into the valley of death. Finally I emerged victorious, not quite smelling of roses but mission accomplished without incident. Perhaps they should consider entering it as an event in the upcoming olympics I reckon the chinese would win hands down.
Said goodbye to Kendall at Liuzhou and on to Guilin by bus.
Hit Guilin and the hostel I was looking for was either closed no longer in existence or like alot of places in china part of a treasure hunt that nobody has bothered to tell the foreigners about. Finally got room in hotel but had to pay a bit above my usual as arrived in town late, on my own, with cold and in the pouring rain. Not in great bargaining position still managed to get hotel room for 60 Yuan down from initial ask of 100 yuan.
18/12/04 (Saturday, Day 20)
Caught bus to Yangshou. Raining monsoon style on arrival. No problem getting accommodation. Food here is quite good. They do a great rice, meat and veg stir fry for a mere pittance. I've also tried some banana pancakes, not bad either. Also loads of western food joints.
!9/12/04 (Sunday, Day 21)
Walked around Yangshou for a bit ventured just outside the city. The area around here is quite scenic. But its obvious from the low level of the river and the scarcity of westerners that its not high season at the moment.
(Karst Peaks and river view, Yangshou)
Nevertheless the karst rock peaks jutting up all over the landscape is a pleasant change from the much more urban and industrialised parts of china. Its extremely laid back here I think I could stay here for ever but reality bites.
(View of Yangshou Bridge)
20/12/04 (Monday, Day 22)
Still trying to shake off flu. So trying to keep the appetite going so not missing any meals and may even add a few. Drinking lots of fluid. Having a reasonably relaxed day. Won't be climbing any mountains today. What else did I do today....well this supdate didn't write itself.
Thus ends the first installment from the annals of Bolands travels.
Seasons greetings to all have a very merry christmas and a happy new year. A couple of responses would be more than welcome.
JB (Off to Shanghai for christmas, I hope there's something going on there but I'll soon see)
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